I have new glass from Mac's Antique Auto and the rubberized cork material that goes between the frame and the glass. I guess some rodder that was really tall could make the frame taller for extra protection from the wind. Next will be a trip to a local glass shop. Here is how I did mine. Chromed each, 1930-31, shipping added when packed and weighed. Type B frame per judging sheet. Yes, the fiberglass body was well reinforced prior to putting on the posts.
By on Monday, May 07, 2012 - 12:17 pm: That Trico looks like it would interfere with the top on an open car. Get a couple tubes of automotive glass setting urethane. Next step was using some screws to hold the corners of the frame together. Now I know how much of a slot I will have to cut in the wooden frame. I wish I would have thought of that! We only cracked a small part in the corner after Rashy showed up.
That's where I put my first Hunnert Car Pileup sticker. I disagree with both Gerry and Ted. Works like the 3 inch holes, adjustable, in Motor cycle windshields, stops that back draft. When I finally attach the oak frame to the posts threaded inserts will be utilized there too. I already have the glass. And I do think you have changed for the better, although I liked you when I met you.
As long as I can get the frame in place and make it open and close I am fine with that. We usually leave when we see the big gray clouds coming in from your area. Lot of extra caulk came out from the side sections when setting the glass in place. It helps a lot to have a friend assisting you. Cut 2 pieces for each side and weld them at a 90 degree angle. Even with the lubrication this took a lot of down force. It will get rusted with vinegar, peroxide and salt recipe then boiled linseed oil to protect it.
Although I did use a different product than the one you suggested, the procedure was the same as you mentioned. He let me take the inch and a quarter off the side because the round edge was something he would have to get rid of anyway. The original model T's had it. Kenny fixed me up with a router table. Let us know in a year or so how the sillycone works. I learned that it is actually layers of glass somewhat like plywood is made.
Mine must be a 29 because of the single square corner on the deflector and it has the short pivot arm brackets but it does not have the tube for the wiper. The comfortably upholstered bucket seats and competition belts complete the interior experience. It does have some rust damage on one side in the glass groove and the sheet metal clamps for the rubber are mostly missing on one side and partially missing on the other. I'm sure fastening it down with some hardware will take the wiggle out of it. I believe they are stainless they came from Wintec The hardest part of building your own posts is getting started. If you are a good fit and finish man, your done. Thats how I did it---A weekends fooling around in the garage, and i was very pleased with the results.
Was in the middle of trying to do the same as frisco on mine. Ron was right with the rubber. I have used silicone on side glass channels and works great. Up to recently I have had aero screens on my speedster which deflected some wind but only up to about mouth level. I'll just stick with the urethane. It does not include glass channel, glass clamps, filler blocks or rubber weather strips. This car also has a rather interesting solution to the problem of doors being too small to get in easily.
The plastic makes a tough barrier to prevent someone from flying thru it with a frontal impact. This authentic steel stamping is from a Ford blueprint. Silicone can't be worse than using tape. My way worked for me. I traced around the post with a pencil onto the wood at the places where it needed to be thinned. This tool was super easy to use and did an excellent job.
The only problem as was previously mentioned is trying to get the glass out in the future. The post are round stock that have a groove milled in them and they drop into a close fitting tube that is welded to a frame work that supports the front portion of the body. I have the means to tig the pieces in. Both the top and bottom frames have square corners. Never too old to learn. When installed and finished properly you cannot tell it is two halves.
The exceptions to the glass size are deluxe roadsters and slant window bodies. Even with a pilot hole oak can be tuff to put screws into. Between the layers is plastic resin the holds it together. There is no problem finding a working example on eBay, with some of them even erroneously claiming to be Ford models. The closed-car windshield frame is more complicated. I have looked into them. Put a thick bead in the channel all around, then slide the glass into the channel.