Even the cover itself had corroded after 10 years of Canadian elements. Removing the bulb for an extended period of time may affect headlamp bulb performance. Before reinstalling, I made sure to wipe it down with a dry cloth so that the new sealant would hold. Rotate the drive belt tensioner away from the drive belt and remove the drive belt from the alternator pulley. Now i'm going to use a gasket. If the interval is kinda low, should I install one of those drain plug kits on the differential cover providing I have clearance? Hint: Look at the sticker inside the door frame on an Aerostar. You have to look up your axle on drivetrains.
Gear oil is used in the rear axle differential to lubricate the bearings and ring and pinion gears. I know I found the exact amounts somewhere or a guide but can't see to find it. I'll get back in touch. I torqued screws to10-15 ft. Anyhow, I'm not too keen on buying another 3 qts.
The cover was wet with fluid and there was that telltale shudder upon acceleration, which has been described in other threads in this forum. Hmmmmm, didn't see a thing in there about rear differential fluid. Avoid inhaling any dust from any brake surface! This is where I found the oil specification. Looks like someone used red loctite or equivalent to install these plugs. Are you running auto 4x4???? Some people use some gasket sealant, some don't. Luckily, I pulled out my owner's manual, and told the guy I'd see what Ford recommends.
The pictures below show what it looks like before and after cleaning it up. When cleaning up the cover, be sure to clean off the fine metal shavings off the magnet, which is normal. Also be sure to remove any pieces of the gasket that may have been left on the cover or differential housing. If you remove the panel beneath the steering column optional it gives you a clear sight of the housing; which is underneath the dash on the driver side above the parking brake. They are only a few bucks. You also fill the diffs until fluid starts to come out the fill plug hole.
Avoid touching the glass envelope. Obviously, if you need to add oil you should find out why and fix the offending seal. This wasn't mentioned in the Ford-issued owner's manual or the Haynes maintenance manual I have. If you do neither of those every 35,000 miles is good!! I prepared the bolts with a bead of sealant around their underside collars as well. Never clean the brake surfaces with compressed air! Time for me to find a new place to have my oil changes done! If you use your truck for heavy towing, or go off-road often, you want to change it once a year. The mounts isolate engine and transmission from the chassis so vibrations and noise are not transmitted to the rest of the vehicle.
It calls for Ford synthetic 75w140 gear lube. When the fluid is around the ½ inch mark on the Allen wrench, the fluid level is good. Clean the end of the speedo cable and slip it in and hand screw it back in and be sure not to cross thread it. To avoid overflowing of the master cylinder when the caliper pistons are pressed into the caliper cylinder bores, siphon or dip some… Applicable for 2003-2006 Ford Expedition With a flat prying tool tip should be wrapped in cloth , gently remove the following; 1 Door handle bezel 2 Window control switch plate. You should join the Expedition Owners Group and ask your question in that venue. Remove the four oil pump mounting bolts, then remove the oil pump from the engine. Also, if you ask nice or threaten to go elsewhere , you can usually get your Ford dealer to discount this kind of item.
You can also try Fordpartsonline. Silver lining: I don't need no stinkin' drain plug, all I gotta do is poke it. Now fill the gear oil into the fill plug until it starts to drip out. Contrary to what some people will say, you don't have to remove the fuel rails. The type of oil used in the front differential on four-wheel drive models may be different than what is used in the rear axle. Again - be sure to clean the area first so that grit doesn't fall in while removing that sensor! It seems easy enough but thought I would ask for any experience or pointers before I mess something up.
I used Ultra Black, it's the high temperature one. The owner's manual and the Haynes manual have no mention of this. Especially not in Maryland - it gets pretty hot, but not too terribly cold. On some front-wheel drive cars, upper mounts torque struts also control the fore and aft movement of the engine during acceleration. Proper bearing preload and gear mesh are critical. Now look for the two bolts on the back side of the brake caliper.
But do you need to put the gasket sealer on there too or do you just use the gasket? I have a question on the Rear Differential Fluid Maintenance. The specs are stamped into these tages. In my case the cover has e … ssentially turned to rust from road salt. I also used synthetic lubricant in the front differential of my 4x4 Expedition. The rear differential fluid goes directly into the rear differential. My 95 S10 had no drain plug either, just a fill plug on the upper passenger side of the pumpkin, just ahead of the right side axle.
Those measurements are from the owner's manual of my '99. About a month ago I noticed a hum in the rear end at low speed turns. Modern cars and trucks need less maintenance than the vehicles of 25 years ago, but they still need fluid changes, checks, and adjustments. Your differential could be damaged by using the wrong type or viscosity of gear oil. There are a couple of metal tags bolted to the differential cover.