Grinding gears, marbles in a jar, the whole bit. Between here and the Ford forums it's pretty much settled science that the transfer cases are going to suffer a high failure rate without regular fluid changes. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. I almost feel like its pointless to ask them to check splines. The fluid pumped out easily and was not sludge yet.
My wife does mostly city driving so that may have caused it. I shortened the input and output lines and added a few oz of royal purple to to help dilute it. I have a very hard brake which then sporatically goes soft. The contact then took the vehicle to a dealer where the failure was then confirmed. Like the original post in this discussion I was able to extract only a small amount.
I have a hard time trusting this vehicle for that amount of driving. That doesn't make much sense either though. Also, what's this news about the failed water pumps? I just did my transfer case today and it was the second change for me. Basically the front transfer case or power transfer unit, ptu is too close to the exhaust system and gets heated up more than usual. Only when I removed the tube was when it started to dribble out very slowly. Hi Rawyzf, so you changed your transfer case oil at 60,000 miles using Avidien's procedure and now your at 85,000 miles with no problems? This problem has apparently caused vehicles to catch fire while driving.
I plan on repeating the process after 800-1000km and comparing the results then. I am wondering, if you needed a new fill plug is there a part number for it. Did a Royal Purple change around 45k after discovering this thread but the oil was in really bad shape. If you are going to the trouble of getting under there and removing the plug it would make the most sense to just press on and change the fluid in the transfer case. I completed this last night with very few issues. Initially I thought that since my honeymoon with a new car is ending.
Yes it is very tight under there but having done this a few times now I am pretty good at it. Anyway, I'll swap transfer case oil next week, still on the fence with what oil to go with, shortlist so far is Royal Purple, Amsoil, or Redline. It progressively got worse making a metallic clunking sound. I asked the parts guy and he was very clear there was no friction modifier and offered a bottle of it to be added if the installation required it a limited slip diff for example. This takes the normal screen filter and makes it obsolete.
That's what the transfer case oil should look like 40,000 miles if it's lifetime oil! No way in hell this should be lifetime oil. Thanks Avidien, I change the air filter and the cabin air filter every year. Step 1 Remove drain plug,Drain oil into drain pan Step 2 Remove oil filter Step 3 Reinstall drain plug,qnce oil has drained. The transmission is sealed, so go figure. The vehicle was coasted to the side of the road and taken to an independent mechanic who found an internal fracture of an oil leak. I really think you'll be in fine shape for whatever trip you decide to take. Remove drain plug with socket wrench.
Not sure if they can tell that drain plug was open but if they do, I wouldn't be surprised if they denied service under warranty. Took it for a ride and seemed fine. I got under there and removed the plug. Made the trip with no issues at all and everything is fine. That's actually the correct way to do this but that's way above my mechanical capabilities and I'll probably screw it up and crack the transfer case. Transfer case went at 25,900 miles and dealer replaced it under warranty in June of 2013. I still don't see how that can be without changing the oil but if they figured out a way that would be great.
I read somewhere that Ford Edge Middle East models only have drain plugs. Cover cap torque setting: 25 Nm. Will leave it for a while. The problem it seems is in the rear end. I took the brace off and tried shimming it with thick washers but nothing worked. Only original content is acceptable.
Right now my plan is to put 500 or so miles on and do it again. It's a defective part, nothing I did and I am left to pay to fix a problem that Mazda knows is their fault. This transfer case belongs on a Go-Cart, not a 5k pound vehicle. Therefore both the transfer case and transmission needed to be replaced at my expense. I think its a huge fuck up on mazda's end. Any chance for tutorial for rear diff much appreciated. Additionally, I read somebody was using Some Motorcycle's Heavy Duty oil in his Ford Edge, it's another option.
So as long as I keep servicing it, all should be fine long term I hope. Also this would add significantly to the fluid capacity which I think is the main culprit to the fluid going bad problem on these vehicles. I'm not sure if it's needed or even advised to run it in a transfer case. I wasn't due until 100,000 miles, but didn't want to do it in freezing weather, anyways got the transmission flushed I know, I know, some may say not good but I've religiously done it from new so I have no worries about flushing, for those who never done it and already over 60,000 miles, I don't recommend flushing just do drain and fill flushing on cars that never had the transmission serviced may dislodge debris and cause more problems anyway, I don't believe in lifetime fluids, I service all the fluids in the drivetrain system religiously as shown, one thing for sure, if I ever sell this car the buyer will have a well maintained vehicle! I would have looked into it a little more myself, but I'm living in a rented townhouse right now and don't have an easy way to work on it. After contacting Mazda they say they extended the warranty to 90,000 miles because of this problem but hasn't notified the owners of the vehicle.