No problems with Audi before it was parked. I followed everything I've read so far, installed the new mk60 pump. Performance Gain: Better braking Complementary Modification: Change brake pads Need to buy parts for this project? Must not have used the Motive correctly. The brakes worked ok-ish but only towards the bottom of the pedal. I am not familiar with that. Bought the Motive power bleeder and tried using it.
Estimated pricing is based on the estimated time for the repair, the estimated range of labor rates based on the region in which the repair will take place, and the estimated range of price of the base parts needed for the repair. This water can have a corrosive effect on brake system components, and under extreme conditions, such as during track driving, the water in the system lowers the boiling temperature of the brake fluid. Always consult a certified automotive mechanic before making important automotive repair and service decisions. I noticed you did a manual bleed and suggested a block under the pedal. When the fluid is fresh and clean, close the nipple. What do I do now? Just do exactly what it says.
Are you 100% sure that the pedal would be harder with a vac leak? Take your foot off the pedal. Changing the brake fluid is a wise piece of maintenance for your Audi A3. Take your foot off the pedal. At any rate, I recommend bleed all 4 again. Pedal goes all the way to the floor now and barely stops the car.
Should I bleed them with the car off? Close the nipple before releasing pressure. It's also a 1 person job. When you're done with each caliper, tighten the bleeder screw back down, remove the bleeder hose, and replace the rubber cap for the bleeder. You can have someone pump the brake and bleed manually to get any possible blockage out first. I have noticed that where the caliper slides on the two metal extrusions of the spindle that a grove has been worn in these extrusions at the same location that the outer pad makes contact with these extrusions. If you replace brake lines or calipers, you should bleed your brake system to remove any air that might have entered the system.
It's really strange because when the car is off, it's quite hard, then when I turn the car on with my foot on the pedal it sinks like it used to do before all these problems started. I removed the bleeder screw of the wheel without fluid flow flow and the tiny hole in the bleeder was completely plugged up with crap. This will give you less fluid to push out to the calipers before you're seeing new fluid. Some cars have the clutch slave cylinder on the bottom of the transmission, making it easy to get air into the system. Therefore the assistant should only act according to your direction. This article applies to the Audi A3. This article applies to the Audi A3.
The assistant should then push the pedal down and as they do so, you loosen the bleeder screw. Only tighten the nipple as much as needed to close it, or you'll break it off or strip it. This article applies to the Audi A3. It typically comes out fairly slow. On some models the wheel cylinders and calipers can trap a small amount of air and normal bleeding can bypass this air.
See how using a vacuum or pressure bleeder is better? I filled the master cylinder, pumped the power bleeder to 14. By - May 19, 2016 Contributors: indoor This article applies to the Audi A6 C5 platform 1997-2004 equipped with a manual transmission. One in the car pressing the pedal and working Vag-Com, the other outside opening and closing bleeders and making sure the master cylinder doesn't run dry very important! Time to bleed the air out of the system. Pump runs for 10 seconds, pushing fluid out of the bleeders into your catch jars. Regarding bleeder screws, cleaned them last night, was clogged, but even when they where removed before I cleaned them I had this slow drip. It's a good idea to check the level and top it off each time you switch from one caliper to another, if not more often. So bleed the clutch last, and make sure you start that part of the operation with a full reservoir, and remember when bleeding the clutch you can't let the reservoir level get as low as you can when bleeding the brakes.
Watch as the old fluid comes out of your caliper, and wait for the new brake fluid to start coming out. The factory recommendation for changing the fluid is every 2 years regardless of mileage. Fluid came out, but no bubbles. June 16, 2017 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info. A hand vacuum pump is an essential garage tool but if you're buying it just for the brakes, spend a little more and get a pressure bleeder. Audi suggested it could be a vacuum leak from a split pipe to the servo, could it be? After bleeding all corners I am sitting right at the seam between low and high.
After doing that close the lid. The idea with the block is to prevent the pedal from going past its normal stopping point with normal system pressure. Purging air out of the lines If you did get an air bubble in the lines while bleeding, you must get it out. Does it hold pressure when the pedal is pumped with the engine down? I must be the only person that has difficult seeing the fluid level in the reservoir. Car did not have this problem before I did the brake upgrade so that is telling me that the master cylinder is not the culprit. If you prefer to remove some old brake fluid from the reservoir, now is the time to do it.