The contact parked, turned off, and restarted the vehicle; however, the failure recurred. The filter was plugged with carbon. Same lack of acceleration and increased rpm with depressing throttle pedal was noted. It read just below the mark, so I thought maybe that caused it. When I turned on the car it seemed normal and the oil light was gone but the engine was very cold and the car was juttering. While the contact's daughter was driving at unknown speeds, the vehicle shook and the instrument panel lighting flashed. Diagnosed as catastrophic high pressure fuel pump failure.
It will happen while in park, when slowing down to stop at a stop sign, a light, or in a drive thru. Luckily, it didnt overheat or anything and it was my mechanics fault-they had cracked the thermostat housing when they did the timing belt and water pump. Otherwise your motor would be toast. I was at a complete stop when the engine turned off. When accelerating the cars feels as if it is struggling. A few weeks ago the check engine light came on steady not blinking. It could be false alarm from sending unit.
After reading this I'm realizing that I need a special coolant. It seems as if the gears are skipping or being forced. If that did not provide a solution, the transmission may need to be replaced. We haven't even put 2,000 mile on the car yet and the check engine light came on. The failure mileage was unknown. The vehicle was towed to the dealer and they replaced an internal part within the turbo engine assembly.
I have replaced the water pump, thermostat housing and after putting it on the computer it said cam shaft positioning sensor so i replaced that and it still comes on. However, I noticed that there was a recall for faulty ignition coil in previous years for the Jetta. The vehicle was not repaired. Going above 25 miles an hour caused the car to make a loud noise and shake even more vigorously, making it impossible and dangerous to drive. The buzzer is usually for low pressure which means catastrophic failure could be imminent unless I figure out what's wrong before I lock up the engine, starve it for oil, throw a bearing, etc.
I went to Advanced Auto parts to buy an oil pressure gauge but I don't possess the skills or knowledge necessary to actually hook that thing up. I'm concerned how long this has been a problem and if it caused any other issues. The technicians cant find the problems with their machines, but advicing me to test it while its driving , but sometimes you have to drive for long distances. When traffic light finally turned green, I was able to restart engine and drove car to safe location where I then turned engine off. If the pressure is in the normal range, then it's electrical short. I had to get home so I ignored it Honestly, it blows me away the number of times I hear of things like this. Vehicle currently has approximately 50k miles and is driven once every week or two weeks.
Due to no engine light or fault code, dealership guessed ignition switch. I was using 10w30 and wanted to replace with it thicker oil so I put in 10w40. It needs to be have the mesh filter on the oil pump cleaned and the return tube needs to be bored out. Vehicle had 1100 miles on it. My control panel went dead, and my engine was gradually dying, with the radio and electricity still working. If the oil level remains constant, then the oil might not be circulating which is why manuals often say check the oil when the engine is not running.
They told me it fails every 100-110k miles and has to be fixed! The leaking is just from big leak to small leak. Well when I got to my destination with the light and beeper going crazy I looked again. Any idea ab out sites that sell these. We took it into the dealership and found out that the timing tensioner apparently a known vehicle issue according to the mechanic , and that it had damaged the engine to the point it needed to be replaced. But the oil light is way more important. I turned off the car immediately and started it back up without any incident. It has under 400 miles on it with light driving.
Can anyone tell me what this might be and how urgent is it? Looked online and this is a common occurence with the make and model of this car. I do not care to spend thousands of dollars attempting to repair an issue that cannot be identified using a 'trial and error' method on a vehicle that kbb values at less than 5k. Any help would be greatly appreciated. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. All complain about the hpfp failing and then resulting in metal in the fuel system, causing an expensive replacement of the fuel system. Well when I pulled over the first time to check the oil, I also checked tdiclub search results.
Restarted and attempted to rejoin traffic. The failure mileage was not available. The vehicle drastically drove slowly and then raced into third gear. I pulled over into a bank parking lot to stop and restart the car. My check engine light started rapidly blinking. Now I am worried that an oil pump or something failed and caused my engine to seize. Approximately one hour later I went to return some items as the vehicle will not crank over.
Does your jetta run cold, in cold temp? Hope this helps a little! I realized that the technician thought of the ignition switch due to gm being in the news after the deaths, due to similarities. The contact stated that the epc warning indicator illuminated. When i come to a stop, the light will go off, but when i get going again it will start beeping and flashing again and its driving me crazy!!! The next day I was driving down the road and as I slowed down with traffic approaching stop light the vehicle started to shake as if it was trying to quit on me. The contact indicated that the failure had occurred on multiple occasions. I had car towed to dealer who could not find any codes and could not replicate the problem.