Compare to a comparable vehicle for No production vehicle should have more than a 50 mA 0. Connect a fused jumper wire between the negative battery cable and the negative battery post to prevent modules from resetting and to catch capacitive drains. Use of a test lamp or voltmeter is not an accurate method due to the number of electronic modules. I think 140 is minimum on these trucks and look at Benny's sig line for what most folks are going to. Leakage current should be a couple of milliamps at most; more often, it will be on the order of 0.
To accurately test the drain on a battery, an in-line digital ammeter must be used. Connect the ammeter and read the amperage draw. I disconnected the + term on the batteries and put a multimeter between the +term and the main wiring harness. Bismic Blade 35 Bpounds and so many more. Connect the tester between negative battery cable and the post. I try to drive the long way home and check with a voltage gauge in the lighter socket to see that it is charging.
Key off its pulling 2 amps so I started pulling fuses and relays and nothing changed. Once it begins to flow at the nut, you can tighten that one down. Connect the negative battery cable. Thank you Blade 35 for replying Yes I pulled the fuse's and relays in the under hood fuse panel. Could a faulty ignition switch be causing this??? Ensure you have proper fuel pressure at the filter head, should be around 5-7 psi. Cmon guys there are some brilliant minds on this site. I have checked the fuses and all are good.
You will potentially need to crack injector lines by loosening the nuts at the injector, cranking it ove … r on 20 second cranks with 2 minute breaks until fuel flow out at each nut. It is covered in how to repair battery item 9 on our site here however if you want to do it yourself. If you dont, the fuel pump on the passenger lower side of the block might be on its way out. Sometimes when I test the amp draw the fuel pump will come on. Or if you know how to use a multimeter you take measurements to try to figure out what is draining the battery. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the post without breaking the connection of the jumper wire. I proceeded to pull the fuses and relays in both fuse panels one at a time and checking the meter after each one.
With out further info it is impossible to know what is going on. I have an 05 ford f350 6. If a diode is leaking you will read an ac voltage. One thing that hasn't been brought up in this old thread is that the stock alternators were undersized from the factory. Leakage current should be a couple of milliamps at most; more often, it will be on the order of 0. Then if battery still goes down do a draw test on it or have a mechanic do it.
When the truck sits for a couple days the batteries go dead and the batteries are just 2 years old so i charged them individually to be sure they were strong. Very common I did 4 head jo … bs last month on the 6. If so your an idiot and blew your head gaskets. Sorry 4 the bad news. I disconnected the + term on the batteries and put a multimeter between the +term and the main wiring harness. Mine looks for ac sine wave voltage that has not been rectified by the diodes.
I hope i covered everything. The battery indicator light does not work, all other lights work. I proceeded to pull the fuses and relays in both fuse panels one at a time and checking the meter after each one. The alternator is good and I replaced the regulator to be sure it wasn't sticking at times. Wait a few minutes for the illuminated entry lamps to turn off if equipped.
Make sure all doors are closed and accessories are off. The current reading current drain should be less than 50 mA 0. I'm having the same problem 05 F350 6. Cmon guys there are some brilliant minds on this site. Could a faulty ignition switch be causing this??? You still have to find the 2 amp draw.
I must also note that the truck will start up ok and runs good but the dead batteries are a bummer. Slim to none that your egr cooler is causing the venting. Electric pumps eliminate this problem but have their own problems. Oh one more: I've also had problems with aftermarket alarm systems and stereos that would do a drain down. You do know you have 5yr 100,000 mile warranty on the engine if your under either one of those any ford dealer will warranty cyl head gaskets with a 100dollar deductable of course small price to pay if your still covered thou. It is somewhat rare, but I've certainly had several vehicles that had weird symptoms that turned out to be the key module itself.