Seems theres no power getting to the glow plugs when a volt meter used? Sometimes the temperature senitivity fails and will not open. They then turned off the car. The glow plug relay has a large black with orange trace wire on the large terminal. If it detects a difference in draw, it will turn the check engine light on and set one or more glow plug Fault codes. I hunted down the part number and searched all over the Web for a better deal. Some mechanics i know also open the bleeder screw to releave the pressure. Reconnect the connector to the glow plug terminal.
I went in for a compression test today, and they declined the test on the grounds that my 3rd glow plug harness would fall apart when it was disconnnected. Screw the glow plug reamer into the glow plug opening all the way in then out. When in doubt, hold one harness alongside the other before cutting and be sure to give yourself some extra length for splicing. Make sure every connector fits snug on every glow plug. This made those lobes so thin that they wear out before the 200K kilometer mark, also wearing out the tappets. I just found a right and left harness for the Ford 6. So, as you switch your ignition, it heats up the glow plug enough to give a combustion of the atomized fuel in the cylinder piston of your car causing it to run.
Extensive idling times at stop lights or in the driveway are scenarios where these glow plugs are most likely to recycle on and off. Not sure if this might be a Thermostat problem or sensor. Glow plugs were replaced but no difference. There is also a 109 relay that make give you problems down … the road, consider changing this also. During cold weather if the diesel fuel is not winterized the paraffin wax will seperate out of the diesel fueland clog up the fuel filter.
A temperature sender, mounted on the cyliner head, sends a variable resistance signal to the relay as an indication of the engine temperature. The 150 relay tends to be a expensive. Do you think this could be the problem and if so any idea where the sensor would be located 1. Hi All Does anyone know how a glow plug relay for a 300tdi works? It's going to be a case of tracing the circuit back and seeing where feeds are lost with this fault I reckon. They typically pull a very high current 30-40A when cold, tapering off to 9-12A when hot at 12V and will glow red hot within a few seconds of applying power. I hope I have explained the problem a bit clearer.
The glow plug harness on these vehicles is a poorly made plastic molding with only two conductors inside. Get underneath if necessary and look for a missing plug or rusted area. Then, I wired up the Ford harness appropriately. I will pass the info on to my mechanic husband!! I've loosened all the 'star' headed screws but it doesnt budge. Cheers Rod Maybe this might help.
The 3 Auxiliary Coolant Glow Plugs are located at the end of the aluminum cylinder head in a protruding flange directly below the vacuum brake booster pump, which also connects to a coolant hose. Any help would greatly app. Now they fit onto the plug electrodes more tightly than the original harness does. The less splicing the better. It comes with both harnesses so I see it as a 2 for 1 bargain. Another thing you can do is to run a ground wire from the negative pole of the battery to the engine block, use a good, heavy gauge wire for that. A burned-out bulb will cause the glow plug indicator light to come on.
I spoke with the front desk manager who admitted to me that the mechanic just assumed it needed new glow plugs because the bus bar was bad. Ive been told that it may be a faulty coolant sensor but I can't locate the sensor any where within the engine compartment. The bullet connectors were just a bit loose on the plugs, but I solved that by squeezing them ever so slightly with a crimper. From those symptoms it still sounds like a supply is lost to the engine ecu,I know you replaced 109 but have you had a volt meter on the relay output when fault occurs likewise also check the coil has 12v. Hi all, I've searched the forum for access to the glow plug control unit, apparently its under the engine bay fuse box, has anyone taken this out before? Do any of you know if I need to actually reset the light, or does the car do that every time on start up? If not then you can suspect the relay for and open internally and replace and retest. Two spare fuses are provided in the row of fuses on the right. The electric pump can fail intermittently which can also give a non start, clicking relays can also be low battery voltage.
I wound up using some wire and some of those same 4mm bullet connectors, just like the original post. At this point, the cam and valve tappets must be replaced. If you can see it under the knee panel, the Brake Lamp Switch body should be Metallic Green. After speaking speaking with someone who had a similar issue with their Ford Galaxy apparantley it might be worth changing the glow plug relay to solve the problem. Coolant levels are fine, and the cars temperature while running registers at a stable temperature. Cheers does it sound normal when turning over? The harness currently on the car is a homemade harness that was done quite poorly. The crank handle for manual operation of the electric sun roof is clipped on the inside of the fuse box cover.
The Glow plug relay will have a orange and … black wire to it that goes to the starter relay. This made those lobes so thin that they wear out before the 200K kilometer mark, also wearing out the tappets. For example, Coolant Glow Plug 1 can be selected to operate all by itself, or 2 and 3 can operate together as a two-some, or lastly, all three glow plugs can form a triple source of heat for maximum enhancement of engine warm-up time. It should be a 4 pin connector located on the transmission side of the engine head in a plastic flange. Extensive idling times at stop lights or in the driveway are scenarios where these glow plugs are most likely to recycle on and off. Also, it looks like they are 4 wire harnesses.
There is also a 109 relay that make give you problems down the road, consider changing this also. Mark Mark I have a 2000 Jetta with manual transmission. One item of note on the Ford harness, the length between glow plugs is longer than needed. There are about 3 torque-head screws that hold it on. One conductor feeds the positive side of glow plugs 1 and 2, while the other takes care of 3 and 4.