The best way to modify the air intake on these trucks is to get the air intake tube off of a truck with a 300 or a 460 they mount right up to your airbox and get a reusable drop in filter. The Ford truck engines were red from 1948 through 1951, and then changed to green for 1952-53. I've heard figures that range between 120-145 horsepower, I'm assuming that the early 1960's 300 engine only had about 110 horse. Ford engines were generally dark blue in 1949 and changed to bronze in late '49 production through 1951. Buying a wiring harness at any stereo place or walmart has them would be better to use, but here is the wiring info that you need.
Dan I have a 1955 Ford Truck that had the first 239 overhead valve engine 8 cyl the older 239 was a flat head. Remove the power steering reservoir support bracket. Then start with your exhaust. . Lumpy cams sound cool, but suck for trucks.
From 1952 to 1953 they were either green or tangerine. The hot air these things suck in is actually detrimental to performance. Mufflers, improve sound, but won't add any noticable power. Since you have mass air, you don't have to worry about any of the truck cams working with your computer. When tuning up the ignition make sure your base timing is set to 10 degrees btc, and you might be able to bump it to 12 or so, just make sure you don't get any detonation. I did this on my cousins ford windstar mini van and it gave me a code which mean it was a sensor outside of the transmission. Mercury engines we … re green in color from 1949 through 1951.
I use Bosch plugs a lot of people will tell you these are crap, but they have always been good to me and Motorcraft wires, cap, and rotor. Make sure the ignition system is tuned up good with new high quality spark plugs, wires, a cap, and rotor. According to information from Ford. Remove the upper radiator hose at the thermostat housing. Remove the thermostat and O-ring from the lower intake manifold.
Get a set of headers if you get shorties, upgrade the y-pipe as well, the stock one is garbage , a high-flow cat delete it if you don't have emmissions testing , a good performance muffler, and new pipe. She took it to 3 transmission shops and they told her that the transmission needed a full overhaul. Secondly, there is a snap ring inside the next part where those Torx screws came out of; remove it using the correct hub socket. Then I took it to a 4th shop and the guy told me what I wanted to hear regarding… To remove hubs on an automatic 1996 Ford F150, first remove the silver cap that has 3 Torx screw using a Torx screw driver. The hubs come right off after removing the ring. Drain and recycle the engine coolant.
Get rid of it and you will see a good improvement. Before doing any performance mods, make sure the thing is tuned up good. Next, if you are willing to get into some more complex stuff, get a cam. Remove 2 thermostat housing retaining bolts and remove the housing. Take the air intake back if you have not installed it, so you have more money to buy stuff that will actually increase performance. I do know that after alot of research the trucks for 55 came with either a 6 cyl 226 or 8 cyl 239. If you can't take it back, take it off and sell it on eBay.
Since your truck is a '96 it has mass air, so if you get an oiled filter, be careful not to overoil the filter as it will dirty the mass air sensor. Honestly, the air intake is not much of a problem in these trucks, exhaust is the biggest problem. This will give you better off-idle response. Disconnect the negative battery cable. The late model 55 may have had some 272 engines, d … ue to 56 truck soon to be coming out. After this, you get into the expensive stuff like heads, intake manifolds, etc. Exhaust is where to go next.
All these setups do is suck in hot air from under the hood. Good luck with your truck and have fun! The exhaust systems that come on these trucks are pure crap. For 1952 and 1953 the Ford engine was either tangerine red or green. . .