Hate to give it up for something like this. I was able to pry them open with a flat head screwdriver. Hate to give it up for something like this. It is also frustrating that in this day of almost everything worth knowing being online, that there is scant data available for these units. I am expecting them any day now from being scanned not cheap. Removing the bolts allows you to slide the pieces out.
Unless some how there was a manufacturers defect in the placement of the wires? At worse, it is held in with clips. The only wires I used were from the previous deck. Cleaning the contacts on the rear might help but usually not. This car is in great shape. Two in the instrument cluster area underneath the top edge.
I personally would like to know the results. As they age, they lose their ability to dampen and absorb those harmful voltage spikes. I have a 1990 Buick Riviera with some dash problems. I was going to put a wind speed anemometer on her car roof so she could at least judge her speed from that, however a strong head or tail wind might just throw things off a bit! This can be dangerous if you think you are in park and are actually in reverse and let off of the brake. I found used replacements online, and the dealer has had my car for another week. When reinstalled in the car it would fail sometimes in a couple of days, sometimes a month.
I can understand why none of the shops has volunteered their service data, they would be cutting their own face off. You may want to test it out before you put all of the dash back together as well. You'll be able to get the same like, kind and quality of parts that you're trying to replace. Rarely if ever have I found an intermittent electrical fault that wasn't directly or indirectly caused by a physical or mechanical connection such as a problem relay or a loose or shorted wire. Without me able to physically inspect things, there isn't much else I can do for you. Locate a group of four resistors in the upper right hand corner of the circuit board.
I turn them off and the stereo immediately dies. I'm thinking the accessory red wire is correct and fuels the stereo and then my alternator takes over and the yellow constant isn't doing anything at all. I keep replacing the fuse and it still does it May 19, 2010. A bad diode will reduce the maximum output current to exactly one third of its designed output current, and ripple will be very high. I suppose that the 90-91 thru 93 for Riviera cluster just isn't a common enough item for anyone to have gotten serious about it. Once removed, remove the screw holding on the end of the dash.
Then, attach the resistors one by one where the old ones used to be. Electrical issues can be confusing. Now that you have this out, there are four screws holding in the instrument panel. Electrical problems seem to be a different animal all together. Then, add a drop of solder to each pad to prep it for the new resistors. I used to have a 1991 Riviera that had the same problem.
That bulb may need replacement, as it senses darkness which turns on the backlights. However, isn't there always, I soldered eight 8 inch wires to each pair of resistor contacts and soldered each pair to a properly rated potentiometer. Stereos typically need three power connections: Always On 12V essentially, straight from the battery with an inline fuse , Accessory 12V Only when key is on , and Ground to the car chassis. Given that your radio works with the headlights which will draw significantly more power than the radio does , I doubt that is happening. Either way, customers lose and they win.
Everything on it works when it has power but it's as if it's surging or having power redirected when the dash lights come on. Don't worry if you accidentally bridge them together like I did , they are all in parallel anyway. These can be tricky to remove with a plug puller, but you should be able to pry them out with other tools. The only difference between what you did and what I did was that I didn't disconnect the battery and simply removed the fuse for the airbag. If your fuel pressure retention at the fuel rail is good, it's just time for a major tune up. Squeaks and rattles may develop later.